A Guide To Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster: Visit Mulan’s Home in Fujian

The Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster is one of the most famous and well-preserved examples of Tulou architecture, located in Yongding County, Fujian Province, China.

The Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster (田螺坑土楼群) cluster consists of five circular Hakka Tulou buildings arranged in a unique “Four Dishes and One Soup” formation, with four smaller Tulou surrounding a larger central Tulou. This iconic arrangement is symbolic of the traditional Hakka family structure, with each smaller Tulou representing a separate branch of the family and the central Tulou serving as the communal gathering place.

There are several Tulou clusters to visit in Fujian Province, so in this guide I’ll share why I chose Tianluokeng, how to get there, where to stay, and what to do when you arrive.

The Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster is located in Yongding County, Fujian Province, China.

What Are Tulou

Tulou (土楼), meaning “earthen buildings” in Chinese, are traditional communal residences found in the mountainous regions of Fujian Province, China. These unique structures were built by the Hakka and Minnan people centuries ago as a form of fortified housing, designed to provide protection from bandit attacks and natural disasters.

Tulou are characterized by their circular or square layouts, thick rammed-earth walls, and multi-storey construction, often housing several families or an entire clan under one roof. These architectural marvels reflect the rich cultural heritage and communal traditions of the Hakka and Minnan people.

The Tulou buildings were even featured the live-action adaptation of Disney’s “Mulan” movie released in 2020, While the specific scenes where Tulou were used may not be explicitly mentioned, Tulou architecture is a significant part of traditional Chinese culture and can often be seen in films set in rural or historical settings.

Why Visit the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

Visiting Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster (田螺坑土楼群) offers a unique and unforgettable experience that sets it apart from other Tulou clusters in Fujian Province. Each cluster will allow you to see the architecture in a unique way, with some being more touristy than others.

Here are the reasons why I wanted to visit the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster over other Tulou clusters:

Unique Architectural Formation: Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster is renowned for its distinctive “Four Dishes and One Soup” layout, where four circular Hakka Tulou buildings surround a larger central Tulou. This unique architectural formation is rare and symbolic, representing the traditional Hakka family structure and communal living. The cluster’s layout is not only visually stunning but also holds significant cultural and historical significance.

Mountain steps with an overview of the Tulou: This site is popular for it’s picturesque view overlooking the Tulou from above. You can walk up some steps (around 10 minutes) for a view over the Tulou clusters.

Accessibility: While some Tulou clusters in Fujian Province may be more remote or challenging to access, Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster is relatively accessible, making it suitable for visitors of all ages and travel preferences. It can be conveniently visited as a day trip from nearby cities like Xiamen or Longyan, allowing visitors to experience its beauty and cultural significance without extensive travel.

People still live inside these Tulou: Once we arrived, we saw that people were still living inside these Tulou buildings. It was really fascinating to see up close how people lived in a community together. Many people of course have made a livelihood out of the tourists who visit, selling items and having restaurants inside the Tulou courtyards. But it gave us a great chance to talk to people about their lives. Many people said their family had been here for many generations.

How to Visit the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

From Xiamen

By Bus or Car: The most common way to reach Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster (田螺坑土楼群) from Xiamen is by taking a bus or hiring a private car. The journey takes approximately 2 hours by road depending where in Xiamen you are driving from.

The best way I found to arrange a driver was by scheduling a Didi driver one day in advance. This way you can confirm you have a driver, and Didi makes sure it is a fair price. Because there are so many travelers going to the Tulous, I also found it was easy to schedule a return Didi driver the next day to take us back to Xiamen city.

Alternatively, if you’re just visiting for a day, you could a range a round trip driver to wait for you while you spend a few hours at the tulous, then drive you back.

By High-Speed Train: Alternatively, you can take a high-speed train from Xiamen to Longyan City (龙岩市). From Longyan, you can transfer to a bus or arrange for a car to Yongding County. The train journey takes around 1.5-2 hours, followed by an additional 1-2 hours by road to reach Yongding County.

From other cities

If you’re traveling from other cities in Fujian or nearby provinces, you can take a bus or train to Longyan City, then transfer to a bus or arrange for a car to Yongding County.

Buying an Entrance Ticket

To get into the scenic site, you will need to buy a ticket. We bought ours at the tourist center just nearby the entrance, then we were able to enter and stay overnight at a homestay in the Tulou area. I believe the entrance was around 90 RMB per person.

Where to Stay at Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

There are a few options for where to stay around the Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster:

Taxia Village: This village is near Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster and offers a few guesthouses and homestays where you can experience local Hakka culture and hospitality.
Yongding County: There are some basic guesthouses and accommodations in Yongding County, providing a convenient base for exploring the Tulou cluster and nearby attractions.
Homestays and Farmstays: Consider staying with local families who offer homestay experiences or farm stays in traditional Hakka houses. This allows for a unique cultural immersion experience.

We stayed at Nanjing Tulou Tianluokeng No.1 Homestay (南靖土楼田螺坑壹号民宿). We booked this homestay through the Chinese version of CTrip (the English version will work as well). This homestay was fantastic because we were staying right in the village and it was right next to the Tulou. In the morning we could just wake up and walk 2 minutes to the Tulou.

The family running this homestay was also so friendly, and we ate dinner and breakfast here for a very reasonable price. Definitely recommend, especially for convenience and access to the Tulou!

How Long to Stay at Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

A typical visit to Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster can be done in a day trip from Xiamen or other nearby cities. However, if you want to explore the area more leisurely and immerse yourself in the local culture, consider staying overnight for one or two nights. I stayed for two days and one night, which I felt was enough time. This tulou cluster area isn’t actually that large, so it can easily be done in one day as well.

Things to Do at Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster

Explore Tianluokeng Tulou Cluster: Marvel at the unique Hakka Tulou buildings, including the famous “Four Dishes and One Soup” formation. Learn about the history and architecture of these ancient structures.
Experience Local Life: Take a leisurely walk around the villages, interact with locals, and experience their way of life. Visit local markets, temples, and tea houses to immerse yourself in the local culture.
Hiking and Nature: Enjoy the beautiful natural scenery surrounding the Tulou clusters. Take a hike in the countryside, explore nearby rivers or rice paddies, and enjoy the tranquil ambiance of rural Fujian.
Sample Hakka Cuisine: Indulge in delicious Hakka cuisine, known for its hearty flavors and use of local ingredients. Try specialties like Hakka stuffed tofu, braised pork belly, and rice dumplings. We also had a delicious coconut chicken soup!
Visit nearby Tulou Buildings: Explore other Tulou buildings in the area, such as Chengqi Lou and Hekeng Tulou Cluster, to gain a deeper understanding of Hakka culture and heritage.
Around the Tulou village we saw (and heard) lots of kids setting off firecrackers and other fireworks. Inside the Tulou several ladies were selling fireworks and encouraged us to buy some!

Important Tips

Plan your transportation in advance, especially if you’re arranging for a car or hiring a driver.
Respect local customs and traditions, and ask for permission before taking photos of people or entering private properties. Inside one tulou, one lady asked us not to go up to the 3rd floor for photos. Inside another tulou, the people living inside told us to go upstairs and look all around.
Make sure your Alipay or WeChat pay work, or bring cash with you.
Check the weather forecast before your trip and pack accordingly, as the climate in Fujian can vary throughout the year.